Both a beginner focusing on foundational sewing skills and a seasoned craftsperson looking to improve upon existing techniques, it is impertative to know nahttypen, which is german for seam types. Joing fabric with seams has many more applications than the effcient stacking and folk technique of suturing shapewear; they are an integral part of garment shaping, offer structural reinforcement, and add aesthetic styling. Selecting the appropriate seam type aids immensely in determining whether a garment is ‘homemade’ or ‘professionally tailored.’
In this article, we cover the top 7 nahttypen every sewer needs to know, what they are along with their place of usage and why they are important.
1. Plain Seam (Geradstichnaht)
The most basic and widespread seam is the plain seam which involves taking two pieces of fabric, placing them right sides together, and running a straight stitch along a defined edge.
Best for: Construction of garments, home décor projects, and light to medium fabrics.
Why it matters: Foundational. Most projects are built off some form of this seam.
Tip: professional pressing ensures the seam is balanced and flat aids further in achieving precision.
2. French Seam (Franzosische Naht)
French seams are ideal for sheer and delicate fabrics as they enclose the raw edges of these fabrics. This type of seam is created in two stages starting with wrong sides together, then turned and stitched again.
Best for: Silk, Chiffon, Organza, or any fabric whose seams are strategic and need to be concealed.
Why it matters: The couture method provides a clean inside with no raw edges which is wonderful for meticulous sewing.
Tip: Reduce your allowance, as the seam will be sewn two times.
3. Flat-Felled Seam (Kappnaht)
Flat felled seam is commonly used in jeans and workwear because of its strength, durability, and the way it lays flat. The raw edges are tucked and sewn down within the seam.
Best for: Denim, trousers, outerwear, sportswear.
Why it matters: Provides additional durability as well as a clean finish on both sides of the fabric.
Tip: Use contrasting thread for decorative top-stitching or matching thread for a more subtle appearance.
4. Zigzag Seam (Zickzacknaht)
Zigzag stitch, while not a traditional seam, is useful for finishing raw edges to prevent fraying, especially for woven fabrics
Best for: Edge finishing, stretchy fabrics, or situations without a serger.
Why it matters: Enhances the longevity of garments and makes them look neater.
Tip: Change proportions of stitch width and length depending on fabric used.
5. Double-Stitched Seam (Doppelnaht)
This type of seam uses two rows of straight stitches for added strength. It is primarily used in strain areas, such as the crotch seams and shoulders.
Best for: Children’s garments, activewear, and heavy-duty fabrics.
Why it matters: Strengthens work without needing specialized tools.
Tip: Maintain even spacing to achieve clean results.
6. Overlocked Seam (Overlocknaht / Serger Seam)
A serger or overlock machine simultaneously trims, encloses, and stitches the fabric edge, creating the overlocked seam. This method is fast and effective.
Best for: T-shirts, knitwear, and other ready-to-wear items.
Why it matters: Consistently produces stretchable seams and neat, factory finishes.
Tip: In the absence of a serger, use a zigzag stitch as a rough substitute.
7. Bound Seam (Einfassnaht / Hong Kong Finish)
The bound seam is used in unlined jackets or exposed seam garments to give a polished look. They are often finished with bias binding which encloses the shame with color.
Best for: Blazers and jackets or any garment featuring exposed seams.
Why it matters: Visually attractive while providing durability; function and fashion.
Tip: Use contrasting bias tape to emphasize the stitching and craftsmanship.
Selecting the Best Seam for the Intended Purpose
Every Nahttypen has its advantages and disadvantages, and the choice depends on:
1. Fabric Characteristics – weight (light vs. heavy), elasticity, and transparence.
2. End Use of the Garment – Casual vs Formal, Workwear vs Activewear.
3. Visibility – Appearing or concealable seams.
4. Functional Requirements – Seams that require high strength vs low strength.
Knowing when and how to use different seam types brings improvement to comfort, appearance, and durability.
Final Thoughts
Sewing is as much an act of invention as it is an act of design, and engineering is one element of sewing which is controlled by nahttypen. Every garment you construct, from a simple summer dress to a rugged backpack, will benefit from mastering these seven key seam types and help build confidence and skill.
Nahttypen add the finishing touch to projects, and with the correct configuration every piece will not only remain intact, but stand apart from others. So, while seated at a sewing machine, think about the vision and fabric to determine the fitting seam.
